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[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]Re: [tlug] wireless router: beginner advice
- Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 00:01:37 +0900
- From: Dan Burrowes <danburrowes@example.com>
- Subject: Re: [tlug] wireless router: beginner advice
- References: <4C89E489.4020603@example.com>
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Hi Darren On 09/10/2010 04:55 PM, Darren Cook wrote: > Any thoughts on this, BUFFALO 11n/g/b対応 無線LANルーター Air Station > WHR-G301N, 5000 yen: http://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B002X79784 [1] > > Or this one, Planex FFP-PKR01, for just 3000 yen: > http://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B003WMAZ8K The two models you mentioned are really designed for different purposes: the Buffalo better serves as a home router/access point/switch, whereas the Planex is best as a travel device for on-the-spot wireless network needs. > I'm a bit vague on wireless LANs. Do I simply plug it in to my home LAN > hub [2], and can then connect linux, windows and other devices that have > a wireless LAN card in them? The simplistic answer is "yes", although there are some issues you would certainly want to deal with, such as making sure that WPA2/PSK is in use (and depending on your paranoia, WPA2/802.1X). As long as the PC's wireless card's hardware supports WPA2, then the drivers should be up to date enough, and you'll be good to go. For Linux, cards with an Atheros chipset tend to have the best support via the open source "ath5k" and "ath9k" drivers (former versions were called "MadWifi"). Please do note that most of these wireless routers are just that: routers. By default, when plugged into a switch, they will create a new network for the devices behind them. Since they also typically are not running routing protocols by default, that can create configuration issues if you want the networks to be able to talk to each other. Regarding option [2], which you noted, these devices also run their own rudementary packet filters (firewalls, if you will), which are not up to snuff compared with iptables or pf. The other option (which I personally use), is to change the router's firmware to OpenWrt, which is an open source, embedded Linux. Practically anything that can be done on a Linux system can be done on OpenWrt, and it is very well supported. You'd want to make sure that the hardware is compatible, however. I'm not familiar with your network topology, so I can't comment on what state this would leave your samba server in. > It gives a list of OSes it works with, > naturally not a mention of linux, but I'm puzzled where an OS fits in. > I assume I configure it somewhere to tell it where the gateway IP? And I > guess it can also be configured by DHCP, and provides some rudimentary > firewalling of its own? And I assume they all come with proper > encryption options, that are genuinely good assuming configured > properly? (I.e. are those all standard features I should expect on any > wireless router, or do I need to be studying specs and comparing models > carefully?) Hmmm...I kinda jumped the gun there and touched on a few of these questions above, but as far as the OS compatibility it's because both of the vendors provide host-based software applications which can "assist" you in configuring the device (for example, automating the setup of WPA2/PSK for wireless). The devices do not require this software -- indeed, most of the detailed configuration takes place via a web-based interface. As it stands, WPA2 with 802.1x authentication is the strongest you can get, and most devices have supported this for a few years. Please note that WPA2/PSK is broken, but it's still good enough for home use, assuming you are not a high-profile target for attack. > My house is two floors. What part of the spec do I need to look at to > know the range of these routers? (One of the comments on the Buffalo > model says 60 tsubo house, and the signal is fine upstairs and through 2 > walls.) Unless your house is huge and/or made of reinforced concrete, you shouldn't worry: two floors should be fine. Like any Radio Frequency (RF) device, the range is determined by the wattage of the sending and receiving antennas. With vendor-supplied drivers and configuration software, however, these are largely non-configurable. Within Linux, however, the wattage can be adjusted. Unless you are very familiar with RF concepts, however, I would recommend leaving this alone since increasing power also increases noise, and you have to carefully balance the two. Remember also that RF doesn't cut off with distance; it fades. Similar to getting radio reception in your car. With 802.11 technology, reception quality = speed. This means that you're unlikely to simply *not* be able to get *any* signal in your house. Any degradation in reception will merely result in the 802.11 connection becoming slower as the reception gets worse. Scan for neighborhood wireless networks with a laptop, and you'll likely find that you can pick up the Tanaka's wireless network from down the block. If you connected to it, the speed wouldn't be so great, but you *would* be able to connect. If you want to simulate this, use two laptops, and configure one of them as an ad-hoc network or access point. Then try to connect with the other laptop. Laptop wifi card output power isn't as strong as a dedicated access point, but you'd be able to sort of experience what you'll be getting into. --dan
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